Durness, Cape Wrath

Wow what a day. Just what a day. If someone told me how spectacular the Cape would be I wouldn’t believe them. We departed earlier than we meant to but that can usually be a good thing and made it round the headland paddling in misty drizzle and some fog, the rocks that were being pounded by the waves the day before were in a more gentle state. The frequency of waves were good and the sea relatively calm in comparison to the last week.
We passed a stack near to Sandwood Bay and contemplated landing for food and a pee break. The swell was large enough for us to decide not to land and we all had a “danger pee”.
The mist was trying to leave and bathe us in the sun’s rays but it hadn’t quite managed to. We carried on. The bleak cliff sides and rock falls giving me a feeling of excitement and fear and the lighthouse I had had a knot in my stomach about for months was peering over the top, was it smiling?
I took a small peer at a cave and had a moment to check out the aerated water and had a sudden back paddle and a flash of “don’t do anything silly now, you are a bit too close to the top”
There was a small tide race and a discussion was had about what to do. I say discussion it was more like let’s go for it and we went through. All grinning and a feeling of this rocks.
We rounded the Cape and a small fishing vessel was there close enough to pull us together but nothing came of it. The swell had created some froth pools and I paddled through some, the noise changes, like they are a sound dampener.
The water had calmed slightly and there was a chance to take photos under the fog horn. This was nothing to what awaited us. We rounded the headland and my heart, eyes and brain nearly exploded with the sheer beauty. I was laughing like a child or someone who had just found the holy grail.
A Geologists porn collection of delight. A double cave wow paddling through one I could of nearly cried. Rock formations to confuse, small cracks leading to the top. Hidden entrances into micro worlds. I could spend a whole day here, I so wanted to explore them all but we paddled on to a landing at a jetty with a building. A quick lunch and we were off again. This whole coast has me. The Puffins flapping past, the Razorbills and the Guillemots the untouched feeling. The busy birds undisturbed by us, business as usual. The overwhelming cliffs the sheer hight and the hardness. This was somewhere and something everyone should find and feel in their life. I feel privileged to of been there and to of been able to share it with the others and to know they get it too.
We paddled on, the landscape here is stark but has a friendly harshness. But a serious commanding of respect. We carried on and ended up at Durness, and a beach camp.
I love days like today. I’m glad to of passed this big milestone in the journey and had some time to apreciate it with the Orcadians.

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